Your guide to navigating Retinol, why you do not need to be scared of it, and how simple it is to add to your existing skincare routine.
So how does Vitamin A benefit me?
"Hang on, we were talking about Retinol"- I hear you shout! that's exactly what retinol is.
This little gem has taken the skincare world by storm- for the last 80 years or so may I add! Let's take a look at retinol throughout the ages.
Vitamin A was first discovered in 1916, isolated in the very early 1930's where the structure was ascertained. The structure of which was found to be unstable in its preliminary stages; broken down by oxygen and sunlight- no good for topical skin care right?
1943 saw the first studies of retinol, post-introduction of retinoic acid in the treatment of acne. The first chemical synthesis of Vitamin A was achieved in 1947 and by 1948 Hoffmann- la Roche (ringing any bells?) were producing commercial batches of synthetic vitamin A.
So why is Retinol such a key ingredient within cosmetic & medical skincare?
Retinoids are highly effective in the regulation of epithelial cell growth. Being lipophilic (combines/ dissolves in fat) molecules, they can diffuse through cellular membranes. Within the cells, they bind to specific receptors and adjust the behaviours of the genes that are involved in cell proliferation (turnover).
In addition, retinoids capabilities include the absorption of ultraviolet (UV) light, alongside antimicrobial, antioxidant properties, and pigment management- retinoid molecules have demonstrated that they are efficacious in the prevention of UVB-induced photodamage.
In a nutshell?
Smoother texture and a more radiant even skin tone
Increased cell proliferation leads to a healthier skin barrier & reduced sensitivity
Its exfoliation benefits means a reduction of clogged pores, breakouts & congestion
Diminished appearance of fine lines & wrinkles
Can we get a round of applause, please?
So now you know what it is, you know why you need it, let's look at how to introduce it to your routine, what to expect from retinol, and how to source a retinol that's safe, effective and that suits your budget.
Starting your retinol discovery & journey
Retinol should be respected. What do I mean by that? It's a potent topical that does exactly what it says on the tin- no messing about. Knowing exactly how to begin your journey and understanding the process will go a long way in seeing you reach your skin goals before throwing in the towel and joining the uneducated, worried masses (and I mean that in the best possible way). It is not a product to be picked up off the shelves in your local beauty shop because not all retinol products are made equal!
You often hear people's horror stories of how it stung upon application, how it 'made my skin sensitive', whilst it does a lot of magical things, one thing it can't do is alter your skin type and leave you with sensitive skin forever more. For those who do not know how it works, or how to safely introduce it to your skin, you will find it stings and causes irritation.
My practical recommendations on how to implement the use of Retinol are simple.
Stay with me now, treat it like a first date, be polite, take it slow, and build up.
Everyone is individual, therefore building up your tolerance varies, adjusting your product strength and usage frequency will go a long way in achieving those results whilst enjoying a comfortable ride.
If you are a complete Retinol virgin then beginning at a strength of 0.25% and applying it as part of your night-time routine, 2-3 times per week is more likely to work better for you. Increase your frequency before increasing the strength of your product.
For the regular Retinol users among us, we would be aiming for a strength of 0.5%. Once we finish our first full dispenser then we would increase to 1%- this would be classed as advanced retinol use.
Product and brand options to suit your pocket
Owning an aesthetic practice, there are only a few over the counter brands (in general) that I'll put my neck on the line in recommending. That simply has to do with efficacy, guaranteed safe and controlled results, and you lovely lot getting bang for your buck. In general, I believe that La Roche Posay and CeraVe are phenomenal over-the-counter skin care options that are backed by, recommended, and supported by Dermatologists. For those looking to lean towards medical, prescriptive-grade skincare with a little more prestige attached to the Brand, look no further than ZO® SKIN HEALTH, founded by the world-renowned dermatologist Doctor ZEIN OBAGI, MD - known globally as a researcher, Innovator, Author and Educator. This brand is only available upon consultation within an approved clinic setting.
This little beauty comes in at around £48
With the added benefit of VITAMIN B3: A soothing agent that helps keep skin soft, plump & supple by improving moisture retention. GLYCERIN: Intense hydration whilst helping to restore skin's precious moisture barrier.
DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED:
9/10 dermatologists would recommend La Roche-Posay*.
*Survey conducted on 267 dermatologists by La Roche-Posay in the UK, July 2019.
CeraVe resurfacing retinol serum
This can be found on average at around £21 Containing encapsulated retinol- delivering the benefits slightly differently, WITH HYALURONIC ACID & CERAMIDES to protect the natural skin barrier & soothe skin. No '%' of retinol is attached to this product.
SkinCeuticals RETINOL 0.3 FACE CREAM FOR AGEING AND BLEMISH-PRONE SKIN
Hits the market at £80 offering this individually and as part of a 4-step night-time regimen to fight the signs of ageing.
Now its time for the big guns at ZO® SKIN HEALTH offering a staggering range of options containing retinol, ranging in purpose and potency. Their skin brightener range is available in a 0.25% (£124), a 0.5% (£130) and a 1% (£140) strength. Suitable to apply morning or night and suitable for all skin types. Using their Oleosome delivery to ensure targeted & slow release of retinol to maximize brightening benefits.
Their wrinkle and texture repair contains 0.5% retinol (£145)- featuring the addition of a microemulsion delivery system to refine skin texture.
RADICAL NIGHT REPAIR
Specially formulated with an advanced oleosome delivery system to ensure stability and provide a slow release of high-potency retinol to maximise anti-aging benefits whilst simultaneously minimising irritation.
Z-RRS2™ - an exclusive potent antioxidant complex not available in other over-the-counter products. Works to protect skin to minimise inflammation and damage caused by daily oxidative stress.
Key ingredients: 1% encapsulated retinol
Vitamins C, E and A
Provides additional antioxidant protection
Sichuan pepper fruit extract, sunflower seed oil and rosemary leaf extract
Minimizes the appearance of redness to restore a more youthful skin tone
Glycerin, sunflower seed oil, hydrates and supports the skin barrier with essential lipids.
Rocking your world at £165
So lets recap to avoid the mind pretzel that led you here in the first place. What have we learned?
Not all retinol-containing products are equal
Start low: low percentage will minimise you feeling overwhelmed with the tingle
Start slow: 2-3 times per week, night-time, build up the frequency before upping the percentage.
With all that being said, you need to have your basics to a T: cleanser, toner, serums, moisturiser, and a good quality SPF. I am a huge advocate for having a good solid skincare regime with good quality products before you consider injectable treatments and moving on to investments such as retinol. It would be like putting a plaster over two tectonic plates during an earthquake.
Skin consultations and skin analysis sessions using the Sylton Observ520X skin analyser gives you scientific, clinical knowledge-based guidance and evidence of what your skin needs, are available within the clinic and can be booked directly via my booking link
For any further guidance or general questions please do leave your comments below.
Please note that the prices demonstrated are correct at time of publication and you may find that product price differ depending upon individual clinics.
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